Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Island Chronicles | July/August 2004

Island Chronicles

First Encounters

On Jan. 18, 1778, a midshipman in Capt. James Cook’s crew sighted O‘ahu, the first high island they encountered in the Hawaiian chain.

Unable to land, the two British exploratory vessels sailed toward Kaua‘i, which beckoned to the northwest.

At sunrise on the 19th, the crews spotted several native canoes sailing toward them, each with three to four men, with fish and stones inside their crafts. Cook’s men called out to encourage them to come alongside, seeing that they were overwhelmed at the sight of the ships and reluctant to approach. As the fishermen paddled within earshot, the English were surprised to hear a language that was similar to one they had heard in Tahiti. The crew quickly requested hogs, breadfruit and yams from the natives, who responded that there were plenty available on land. The natives offered the fish they carried and received in return a variety of small items, highly prizing objects of metal. Although the natives could not be enticed on board, friendliness and trust were exhibited in the exchange. The fishermen then tossed into the sea the stones resting in the bottoms of their canoes, which they had brought, just in case, for self-defense.

As Cook’s ships skirted the coastline, other canoes approached. They brought hogs, sweet potato, taro, salt, native cloth and a few exquisitely handcrafted feather caps and cloaks. Iron was the primary medium of trade. Native men took nails and fittings and fashioned them into tools for boring, cutting and carving. Crewmembers attempted to offer mirrors, Tahitian bark cloth, chinaware and beads for trade, but the natives rejected them as unusable. Cook allowed only native men on board to trade for needed provisions; he forbade contact with women, aware that some of his crew were ill or recently cured of venereal diseases acquired in Tahiti.

he natives were described as being of strong and muscular build. Their skin coloring was between the Tahitians and Tongans, with whom they seemed to share a common kinship. They had black hair, which they carefully colored and groomed; men wore long ringlets below their shoulders; women kept their hair very closely cropped in back, but worn longer in front to dye and style. Both men and women dressed simply. Their native cloth was well-made, beautifully designed and water resistant. In matters of trade, the ship’s officers agreed that the people were respectful and honest. Cheating was unknown; few instances of theft occurred. In general, the natives were productive, sociable and peace-loving.

The impressions of first contact have been well-documented in Western literature. Less known are the Hawaiian observations of their visitors.

January came during the ritual season of Lono, the god of agriculture and recreation. In his honor, the chiefs and priests were making annual circuits of all lands, collecting tithes and enjoying sports along the way. Activity among the population was relaxed, usually limited to basic food preparation and fishing to sustain the family.

On that January day of first contact, as several fishermen paddled off the coast of Kaua‘i at dawn, they noticed strange lights moving toward them. As they approached these “floating temples to Lono,” they were amazed by the stingray shapes of the ships’ sails, the similarity of the masts with their temple altars and the sharp foreheads of the god Lonokaeho on pointed anchor tips. According to Samuel M. Kamakau’s classic political history, Ruling Chiefs of Hawaii, some of the men sailed away in terror, carrying reports to the chiefs ashore. “The gods’ voices are like the twittering and trilling of the ‘oo bird; they coo and they chirp in shrill, high sounds. They are fair and handsome with sparkling, deep-set eyes and sharp noses. Their heads have corners [hats] and their skin is wrinkled [tailored garments]. One of these long-tailed gods breathes fire; surely he is the god Lonopele. They have slain the Great Turtle Back because its intestines lay about [ropes] and they killed the gods Kuilioloa for his hide [canvas] and Niuloahiki for the great number of coconuts present with no tree in sight. These gods are to be respected and feared.”

Curiosity and open wonder ran high among the crew and the natives that historic January day. It was the age of rediscovery, and life would never be the same.

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