Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Island Chronicles | February 1999

Island Chronicles

Alone on a Desert Island

In ancient times, couples could determine if they were compatible-they spent the spring and summer isolated on the barren island of Nihoa

Jutting out of the sea 120 miles northwest of Ni'ihau is the islet of Nihoa, her abrupt vertical silhouette shaped by a coastline largely composed of jagged lava cliffs. These pali kai, although precipitous and imposing, do not shelter the steep interior valleys from the con- stant buffeting of wind and rain. Over time, this assault by the elements has created a terrain that is virtually unapproachable. The basic necessities for habitation, such as potable water and workable land, are hard to come by on this 156-acre speck in the ocean.

Yet, despite the harsh conditions, there is life on Nihoa. Throughout the island's existence, there have been seabirds, loulu palms and-in ancient times-young lovers.

In those days, Nihoa served as a test of compatibility for couples. By tradition, newlyweds from Ni'ihau were sent to live on their own for several months on the distant island, where they were forced to work together to survive the inhospitable surroundings.

In the spring, just after the winter storms had passed, the untried lovers would leave behind their homes and families on Ni'ihau. Sailing north, they would land on Nihoa's only sandy beach or on the sea ledge that encircles the bay on the southern coast. The young pair would set up a simple household. They built a shelter out of the raw materials available, planted vegetable gardens wherever they could, trapped and salted 'ua'u seabirds, caught and dried fish of all kinds. For the duration of spring and summer, they would weather through their isolation together, relying on their combined resourcefulness.

It was a trial of endurance that was also a trial of their ability to cope in partnership. The ancients knew that during a stay on Nihoa, strengths and weaknesses of character would quickly become apparent. The difficulties would severely test a couple's maturity and their love and commitment to one another. Having come through such an ordeal together, the lovers would return to Ni'ihau, presumably much wiser for their experience.

This custom points out the high regard Hawaiians had for romantic love and lifelong devotion between spouses. They worshiped three gods of love, who were also wind gods-Makanikeoe, Laukapalili and Honoalele. They had love magic-hana aloha-which included the use of certain varieties of sugar cane to express affection and to gain acceptance, to hold on to a straying lover, or even to discourage the addresses of an ardent but unwanted suitor.

They referred to sweethearts as fragrant gingers, maile and ferns, delicate 'ilima and lehua, sweet-eyed kole fish or brightly colored uhu. Mist, rain and the coolness of the uplands were also ways they alluded to a loved one or to a romantic affair.

Romance was prominent in oral and written traditions as well. One of the most famous love stories in Hawaiian lore features Hi'i- aka, the sister of the volcano goddess, Pele. Hi'iaka is told to bring her sister's lover, Lohi'au, to Pele's home in Kilauea crater. She obediently fetches him, denying her own love for him. But when she learns of Pele's broken vows and ingratitude, she boldly embraces Lohi'au at the crater's edge. Furious, Pele takes Lohi'au's life in a violent shower of molten ash. Taking pity on Lohi'au, the gods revive him and reunite him with Hi'iaka on the island of O'ahu.

The Hi'iaka-Lohi'au narrative is just one love story out of many in Hawaiian tradition. Through these romances, and through a variety of customary practices, Hawaiians showed a perceptive understanding of human nature and of the inner workings of the heart.

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