Spirit of Aloha | Features | November/December 2007

2 Cruise (or Hike) the Nāpali Coast
By: Pamela V. Brown

WHERE PEAKS REACH THE HEAVENS

PHOTO: DAVID BOYNTON/PHOTO RESOURCE HAWAI‘I PHOTO: BRETT UPRICHARD

Photographs tell only part of the story of Kaua‘i’s famed Nāpali Coast, where rugged red cliffs rise dramatically from a cobalt ocean, waterfalls lightly cascade through lava tubes and carved crevices, and lush valleys still evidence agricultural terracing cut by ancient Hawaiians.

It is only by visiting this beautiful region of the island’s North Shore that you can sense the resourcefulness of the people who once thrived in these valleys. You begin to grasp the courage of their Polynesian ancestors, who crossed thousands of miles of ocean in double-hulled outrigger canoes, steered only by nature’s clues—wind, stars, waves, clouds, birds—to reach Hawai‘i more than 800 years ago.

Because Kaua‘i’s simple highway system rings the island like a horseshoe, with no vehicular access across the northwesterly Nāpali, this oft-photographed stretch of coastline can be seen only by air, hiking trail or sea. I most enjoy visiting Nāpali by sea, plying the ocean’s surface in a large, motorized, inflatable Zodiac raft, or with any number of the power and sailing vessels operated by companies offering tours of the coast. The motion of the ocean’s waves and the cool salt spray on my face let me feel as though I’m part of the sea­scape and of the island on which I live.

On a recent excursion, we depart early from Port Allen, on Kaua‘i’s west side, to take advantage of the ocean’s morning calm, then we head north. As the boat glides through the water I am im­pressed by how easy it is to see the sandy bottom, where fish dart by on their morning rounds and sea turtles occasionally swim lazily just five or 10 feet below us.

Someone cries out, “Dolphins!” Off the bow we see a small pod of Hawaiian spinner dolphins, breaking the surface of the water in perfect arcs, unable to hide their exuberance at simply being alive. Aptly named, the dolphins do indeed spin frequently, executing aerial twists with gymnastic flair.

The magic truly begins when we round the North Shore and see Kalalau Valley. The knife-edged peaks of its velvety mountains are the signature of 5 million years of rainfall on this volcanic island. Now visited only by hikers, Kalalau Valley was once home to a thriving community of Hawaiians, by various estimates 2,000 to 10,000 in number.

They flourished, growing taro, breadfruit and sweet potatoes on acres of lo‘i, or irrigated terraces.

As we continue along the coastline, the cliffs gradually become more rugged. Pristine white sand beaches dot the coast, beckoning intrepid travelers willing to swim to shore or hike down from the narrow and somewhat treacherous 11-mile Kalalau Trail that winds its way along the mountains from Ha‘ena to Kalalau Valley. Now and then we see waterfalls splashing over the mouths of sea caves that gape above the ocean’s surface along the dry cliffsides. I trace the thin white trails of water up the face of the mountains until I can see them no more. They disappear into the clouds as if they originate in the heavens.

Throughout the cruise our captain shares his knowledge of Hawaiian history, trivia and folklore. Most crewmembers are kai kāne, or watermen, who possess a true love and respect for the ocean and enjoy teaching us about sea turtles, land formations and ocean patterns.

When we moor at Nu‘alolo Kai, a beautifully wide expanse of beach on which there is an ancient Hawaiian heiau, or worship area, some of us take a short hike to explore. Others ease into the cool, clear water with snorkels and fins.

Through the years I’ve watched the Nāpali’s high surf from Ke‘e Beach, where the North Shore’s highway ends and the ocean’s mist shrouds the cliffs in awe and mystery. I’ve looked down on the coastline from hiking trails and helicop­ters, noting its many moods and changing weather patterns.

But visiting the Nāpali Coast by sea lets me connect with the island more deeply, making me both an observer and a participant in the sublime beauty of Kaua‘i.

PAMELA V. BROWN is a freelance writer who lives on Kaua‘i.

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