Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Adventures in Dining | November/December 2002

Adventures in Dining
BY LEN TAKUSHI

Vivacious Fine Dining

The Ship's Tavern at the Sheraton Moana Surfrider has reopened with a menu that shines even in dazzling Waikiki

David Lau recalls the day when, simply out of curiosity, he took out his calculator and punched in some numbers. "I added it all up," he says, "and I figured out that in my [restaurant] career I've served more than 4 million people. Four million."

Still, even after 28 years in the restaurant industry, Lau hasn't lost any of
his zest for serving others. His infectious enthusiasm, in fact, has injected new life into The Ship's Tavern, a 33-year-old fine-dining restaurant at the Sheraton Moana Surfrider in Waikiki.

Closed in late September 2001 after the 9-11 tragedy, The Ship's Tavern reopened in April with a new look and menu. The ambience is livelier, friendlier and, in Lau's words, "less stodgy. It has a good feel, and it's a little more vivacious than it used to be." The music is usually jazzy and upbeat, depending on the evening's patrons. "If we have a crowd that's more conservative, I'll play conservative music," says Lau, the restaurant's manager. "We customize everything. This is a restaurant that's alive-it moves with the clientele on each particular night."

Of course, all this would be for naught unless the food was equally appealing. Happily, the food is where The Ship's Tavern shines brightest. Executive chef Ralf Bauer, with more than 20 years of culinary experience, has created an exemplary Euro-Asian menu that masterfully showcases the diverse flavors we enjoy in multicultural Hawai'i.

We began our meal with a trio of sumptuous appetizers: Island Snapper-Mushroom Lumpia with Wilted Greens and Sweet Soy Vinaigrette; Alaskan King Crab Cakes with Okinawan Spinach and Sherry Beurre Blanc; and Prosciutto-Wrapped Baked Tiger Prawn Stuffed with Crab Meat, with Citrus Butter Sauce and Linguine.

And then there's the complimentary bread and lobster dip, which is quite possibly the best I've ever tasted. The dip is a chef's specialty-so much so, in fact, that even the waiters aren't privy to the recipe.

The menu also offers a nice selection of soups and salads. I heartily recommend The Ship's Tavern Salad, a flavorful medley of fresh Island Greens, Caramelized Macadamia Nuts, Toma- toes, Bay Shrimp and Sherry Raspberry Vinaigrette.

For the main course, my dinner companion ordered another Ship's Tavern specialty, the Hawaiian Seafood Bouillabaisse with Shrimp, Scallops, Clams, Island Snapper, Baby Bok Choy with Steamed Rice and enhanced with Ginger Lemongrass. Usually a fin- icky eater, she raved about how good it was.

I had to take her word for it because I was busy savoring my own entree: a 12-ounce New York Steak (certified Black Angus Beef) with Wasabi Red Wine Sauce and Mashed Potatoes. Steaks are usually hit-or-miss with me, and this was a definite hit.

Other Ship's Tavern entrees include Garlic Rosemary Crusted Rack of Lamb; Pan-Roasted Cumin Mint Marinated Chicken Breast; Sauteed Jumbo Shrimp with Soy-Cilantro Vinaigrette; Sauteed Salmon and Clams; and Whole Steamed or Baked Maine Lobster.

Yes, we did manage to save room for dessert. I thought the Sugar-Glazed Crème Brûlee Garnished with Fresh Berries was exceptionally good, but my companion favored the North Shore Pineapple Tart Topped with Macadamia Nut Ice Cream and a Piña Colada Rum Sauce.

While the restaurant features a new look, new atmosphere and new flavors, the gorgeous beachfront views and brilliant Waik¨¦ki sunsets remain familiar starring attractions. "I always suggest that people come at 6 or 6:30," says Lau, nodding toward the room's large panoramic windows. "The light is so beautiful, and the ocean's horizon is everywhere you look. The views are stunning."

As stunning as the idea of serving 4 million guests? Lau smiles. "To me, my job is like going to a party every single night, and I'm a host to 120 different people," he says. "I've served dignitaries like President Bush, Pres- ident Clinton, Michael Jackson and Sonny Bono. But everybody here is a VIP, whether they're celebrating a birthday or anniversary or simply the end of the work week. Everybody's here for a reason, and they want to be wowed. And that's what we try to do."

The Ship's Tavern, Sheraton Moana Surfrider, Waikiki, 922-3111. Open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday from 6 p.m. (last seating at 9 p.m.). Major credit cards are accepted.

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