Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Adventures in Dining | November 2001

Adventures in Dining
by Janet Snyder

An Evening of Hyperboles

"Culinary bliss" is what you experience at The Orchid at Mauna Lani's The Grill restaurant and that's no exaggeration. Maybe it's a cliche to say that dining at The Grill at The Orchid at Mauna Lani is like dying and going to heaven. But it really is a struggle not to veer into hyperbole over an evening of culinary bliss at the Big Island resort's premier dining room.

My husband, Art, and I knew we were in for an experience when a tall, blonde lady in a black dress and pearls introduced herself as our sommelier and suggested that we put our wine choices in her hands. Thank heaven we did. The wine list rivals the phone book of a small town. Suzann McMahan, the resort's wine director, waited for us to study the menu created by chef de cuisine Scott Sorrell before announcing the verdict on the vintages.

I can't resist a risotto; I don't care how long I have to wait till it's ready. What's 20 minutes when you can sink your fork into a creamy, truffle-laden first course like the one I had at The Grill? It arrived piping hot, laced with chanterelle mushrooms, crunchy baby asparagus tips and dripping with Asiago cheese.

Suzann's choice to accompany the fragrant dish: a superb Grgich Hills Chardonnay 1998 from Napa Valley.

Art declared that he had to try the gratinated onion soup. "The litmus test of French cuisine," he pronounced. Art's French mother would have been impressed; it was as rich as it could possibly be. Such a stand-up flavor poses a challenge for a sommelier, but Suzann rose to the occasion with a Raymond Reserve Merlot 1998 that sported hints of raspberry and dark chocolate.

Not surprisingly for a grill, steak takes pride of place here. Each cut is rubbed with Hawaiian 'alaea sea salt, extra virgin olive oil and a homemade blend of organic fresh herbs and roasted garlic.

I decided on a 5-ounce filet mignon with a grilled half Keahole Maine lobster. I was offered a choice of sauces that include roasted garlic jus with chardonnay; Maui onion barbecue enhanced with bourbon; classic Bearnaise; and the one I picked: the black trumpet mushroom and roasted shallot enhanced with port.

My entree was served with the Big Island's pride of fresh-grown produce: braised eggplant, red and yellow peppers and zucchini.

As the food was put on the table, Suzann entered with an ambrosial 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley's Silver Oak winery, softly rich with dark berry fruit and oak tones.

Art posed an enological challenge again with a veal chop topped with a fresh sage and brie cheese crust, arugula salad and a smoked tomato sauce. Suzann chose for him a Masi Amarone Classico 1996 from Verona, whose chocolate-raspberry gusto perfectly complemented the veal.

A word about the texture of the meat. My filet hardly needed a knife, it was so butter-tender. Art loved the chop. "It's so tender I could've left my dentures home," said the wise guy who doesn't wear any yet.

As we paused to draw breath, our waiter, William, regaled us with the prospect of dessert. The evening's special chocolate souffle was Art's pick. It came to the table tall and proud, and, after William poured in the wicked chocolate creme anglaise, it was transformed into a warm pudding that would turn any Frenchman into a poet.

I opted for the three-berry cobbler, a concoction of sliced strawberries, blueberries and raspberries topped with an almond macadamia nut crunch and served with Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream.

Suzann wasn't done with us yet. For her grand finale, she produced glasses of amber Dolce, Far Niente 1997, and Beringer's Nightingale 1992, which had the delightful fragrance of lychee.

As we threw our hands up in surrender, the grand bouffe at The Grill concluded with fresh Kona peaberry coffee-and a chocolate-covered Waimea strawberry for each of us.

We managed to walk out of The Grill under our own power. We had experienced an evening we will never forget.

The Grill, The Orchid at Mauna Lani, 1 N. Kaniku¯ Drive, Kohala Coast, Big Island.

885-2000. Dinner Friday and Saturday, 6:30-9:30 p.m. Valet and free self-parking, major credit cards.

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