Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Adventures in Dining | January 2001

Adventures in Dining
by Joan Conrow

Transcending "Surf and Turf"

Gaylord's at Kilohana on Kaua'i rises well above the usual steak and seafood, serving lamb cooked precisely to your specifications and venison that's moist and flavorful

Gaylord's is part of Kilohana, a former plantation manager's estate.

One of the many things I love about Hawai'i is the balmy nights. It's always so wonderful to sit comfortably outside, beneath the moon and starlight, palm fronds rattling in the breeze. And if I can be enjoying some great food and pleasant company, well, it doesn't get much better than that.

Thus was spent a recent evening at Gaylord's, where a friend and I lingered over a lovely meal served in a charming setting. We had arrived just as dusk was gathering, but there was still enough light to survey the mountain views and broad lawns that surround Kilohana, a former plantation manager's estate that has been converted into shops, galleries and Gaylord's restaurant.

The pace is leisurely at Gaylord's, which seems appropriate given the romantic atmosphere. Tables are under cover but still open-air, spaced well apart in a sort of horseshoe design around a grassy courtyard. Small white lights are strung from the eaves, twinkling softly above the candles set on each table. Hawaiian music plays unobtrusively in the background, allowing for easy, quiet conversation. Occasionally you can hear drumming from the lu'au that Gaylord's offers twice weekly on the Kilohana grounds.

Lulled by the genial setting and pleasant wait staff, we settled down to the difficult task of choosing. Gaylord's is a steak and seafood kind of place, although under the guidance of executive chef Andy Althouse and executive sous chef Ron Miller, it's risen well above the more crass designation of "surf and turf." It has a lengthy regular menu and a full page of nightly specials, where you'll find the fresh fish entrees. Sea bass, mahimahi and 'ahi were offered the night we dined, along with a porterhouse pork chop, a hearty beef soup and a kalua pork with taro chip appetizer. The venison caught my friend's eye; another friend had told her to order it if it was available, declaring it was tender and delicious.

I skipped the specials and scanned the regular menu. Gaylord's is famous for its ribs and I will attest to the tastiness of its barbecue sauce, but I was feeling too refined to gnaw any bones that night. Our waiter said the filet mignon Madagascar, served on a pool of green peppercorn sauce, is the restaurant's most popular entree, and blackened prime rib and steaks are also available, along with pasta, chicken and vegetarian dishes. I finally chose the lamb, and we both selected spinach salads and a shared appetizer of shrimp with a coconut crust.

The shrimp was tender, and the batter was light and crisp, without a hint of greasiness. Our salads were equally fine, the delicate young spinach leaves served with a tasty apple-cured bacon, chopped eggs and a tangy-sweet dressing. The entrees were even better. The lamb, with a hint of sage flavoring its rich, mushroom-thick sauce, was done precisely to my specifications and served atop a bed of fettucine. My friend's venison was moist and flavorful, the tenderloins served in a complex sauce of roasted garlic, basil, sundried tomatoes and artichoke hearts, topped with leeks and garnished with a taro-and-sweet-potato chip. After tasting her mashed red-skinned potatoes, I wished I had chosen them with my lamb rather than the fettucine. Both entrees were served with carrots and broccoli that had been lightly cooked to preserve their color and crunch.

We were certain we had no room for dessert until we saw the menu. My curiosity and sweet tooth directed me to the fried chocolate truffles, a marvelous confection in which dark chocolate truffles are coated with a coconut macaroon crust and then fried. When I broke the crust, the melted chocolate oozed out, blending nicely with the vanilla ice cream and whipped cream served alongside. It's truly a dessert made in heaven. My friend happily devoured her slice of banana cream pie as I made a few notes about our meal. "You can tell them that this pie crust is just out of this world," she directed between bites, pointing her fork at me for emphasis. And she looked so utterly satisfied that I had to obey. So there you have it.

Gaylord's at Kilohana
3-2087 Kaumuali'i Highway
Lihu'e, Kaua'i.
Open daily for lunch and dinner and on Sunday for brunch.
Reservations recommended. 245-9593.

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