Spirit of Aloha | Articles | Books | July/August 2003

Books
By Bob Dye

"Rock" Icon

Allan Seiden tells the story of Diamond Head from ancient times, when it was home to five heiau, until today, as a world-famous landmark

"Not any other thing in the world could have stirred me as the sight of that great rock did," claimed Mark Twain on viewing Diamond Head for the first time in 1895. This vintage Twain hyperbole begins Allan Seiden's celebration of the most famous landmass jutting into the North Pacific. Diamond Head: Hawai'i's Icon details natural and historical aspects of Twain's great rock with photos and text.

Most of us view the interior of Diamond Head crater from an airplane window at a few thousand feet, as we fly in and out of Honolulu. But from that high vantage point, it is tough to determine dimensions. It rises 761 feet high; the crater floor is 200 to 300 feet above sea level and the circumference of the summit is two miles.

Driving around Honolulu, it becomes our most reliable direction finder. (My rule of thumb: If I don't see Diamond Head in the rearview mirror, I'm not going 'Ewa.) It can be seen from Hawai'i Kai to the hillside of Makakilo. Stunning photos of the headland, taken by the author from 14 O'ahu neighborhoods, and even as far away as the island of Moloka'i, document its beauty as a natural directional reference.

The Hawaiians of old called the landmark Le'ahi, and built at least five heiau (temples) on its slopes. The most important of them was Papa'ena'ena, where human sacrifices were offered to the war god Ku. Today, the slopes, and the land spilled below them, are studded with the homes of the wealthy. Though not nearly as prestigious and far more crowded than it was when Hawaiian royalty had homes there, it remains a beautiful and restful residential area.

After annexation, by 1906, the U.S. military occupied more than 700 acres of the land at Diamond Head. The military called the land they took Fort Ruger. Later, to entertain the troops, a movie theater was built. It is now Diamond Head Theater. The camp's command center and housing area became the campus of Kapi'olani Community College. Almost all other military facilities have been returned to civilian use as well.

For sedentary Islanders who haven't hiked Diamond Head, Seiden's book is a good substitute. Chapter 8 guides the reader on three itineraries: To the Summit, Circling the Crater and From a Beachfront Perspective. The book is useful and well-presented.
Diamond Head: Hawai'i's Icon, written and photographed by Allan Seiden. Mutual Publishing, Honolulu, 2002. $24.95.

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